Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
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Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Two part question here fellow trombonists and trombone techs.
1. How does one know if valves needed to be rebuilt? Most of my instruments are older and I know through time valves can wear out and need to be rebuilt. But sometimes its hard to tell if if happens slowly over time,
2. How does one know IF it's possible to open valve ports? Can you tell by just taking the valve apart and looking? If so what do you look at?
Many thanks!!!
1. How does one know if valves needed to be rebuilt? Most of my instruments are older and I know through time valves can wear out and need to be rebuilt. But sometimes its hard to tell if if happens slowly over time,
2. How does one know IF it's possible to open valve ports? Can you tell by just taking the valve apart and looking? If so what do you look at?
Many thanks!!!
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Hey Bill.
A couple of things.
If you pull the valve section tuning slides out, without activating the valve, then, near the end of the pull, activate the valve. How much of a "pop" does it make? That will give an idea as to how much seal the rotor has in casing.
If you hold the stop arm, and try and move the rotor along it's axis, is the discernable movement? If you move the stop arm for/aft, in the direction of activation, is the discernable movement? These will tell you if you have excess play any where.
Correcting excess play is a matter of swedging the bearings. Easy and pretty quick with the right tools. If the rotor doesn't seal well, that is a little more complicated, involving nickel plating and refitting the rotor to the casing.
The possibility of opening the ports depends on the size of the rotor core, and how it was machined.
A couple of things.
If you pull the valve section tuning slides out, without activating the valve, then, near the end of the pull, activate the valve. How much of a "pop" does it make? That will give an idea as to how much seal the rotor has in casing.
If you hold the stop arm, and try and move the rotor along it's axis, is the discernable movement? If you move the stop arm for/aft, in the direction of activation, is the discernable movement? These will tell you if you have excess play any where.
Correcting excess play is a matter of swedging the bearings. Easy and pretty quick with the right tools. If the rotor doesn't seal well, that is a little more complicated, involving nickel plating and refitting the rotor to the casing.
The possibility of opening the ports depends on the size of the rotor core, and how it was machined.
Matthew Walker
Owner/Craftsman, M&W Custom Trombones, LLC, Jackson, Wisconsin.
Former Bass Trombonist, Opera Australia, 1991-2006
Owner/Craftsman, M&W Custom Trombones, LLC, Jackson, Wisconsin.
Former Bass Trombonist, Opera Australia, 1991-2006
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Thanks Matthew! I wish all valves worked as well as yours!!!
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
PS. FWIW. I really don't think opening the ports is worth it with most traditional rotor valves. The reason is they're just too small in diameter, and there is not really enough material available to be removed to make a huge difference. Yes, it will make "some" but it is only small
The photo shows. .594" ball in a Bach 50 rotor. There is .107" protruding from the casing. That is a HUGE reduction in the bore!! There is no where near enough removable material to bring the rotor up to bore size.
The photo shows. .594" ball in a Bach 50 rotor. There is .107" protruding from the casing. That is a HUGE reduction in the bore!! There is no where near enough removable material to bring the rotor up to bore size.
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Matthew Walker
Owner/Craftsman, M&W Custom Trombones, LLC, Jackson, Wisconsin.
Former Bass Trombonist, Opera Australia, 1991-2006
Owner/Craftsman, M&W Custom Trombones, LLC, Jackson, Wisconsin.
Former Bass Trombonist, Opera Australia, 1991-2006
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
What do companies that advertise the port opening for Bach 42 valves do? Do they also make changes to the casing itself to give a bit more of a smooth air passage? The only "regular" rotor horns I have had for many years are Yamahas, so I haven't really had any need / desire to have the valve worked on. My 36 has a standard bach rotor, but I haven't heard of those really being undersized for the .525 bore.
David S. - daveyboy37 from TTF
Bach 39, LT36B, 42BOF & 42T, King 2103 / 3b, Kanstul 1570CR & 1588CR, Yamaha YBL-612 RII, YBL-822G & YBL-830, Sterling 1056GHS Euphonium,
Livingston Symphony Orchestra NJ - Trombone
Bach 39, LT36B, 42BOF & 42T, King 2103 / 3b, Kanstul 1570CR & 1588CR, Yamaha YBL-612 RII, YBL-822G & YBL-830, Sterling 1056GHS Euphonium,
Livingston Symphony Orchestra NJ - Trombone
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
The ports of the rotor are machined out in some way. Generally it is with a hand held device like a Dremel, with a grinding bit. Really the only areas where you can remove material is near the ends of the port. It is possible to remove "some" from the middle, which is where it is most needed, but the amount is determine by the thickness of the web between the 2 ports.
Matthew Walker
Owner/Craftsman, M&W Custom Trombones, LLC, Jackson, Wisconsin.
Former Bass Trombonist, Opera Australia, 1991-2006
Owner/Craftsman, M&W Custom Trombones, LLC, Jackson, Wisconsin.
Former Bass Trombonist, Opera Australia, 1991-2006
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
I have bored out rotary cores on a 3 axis CNC with an undercutting ball mill, also known as a lollipop mill. There is plenty of material to be removed even in traditional rotaries to maintain cross-sectional bore area through the valve passage, although the cross section will not be round. It is very effective but not as good as valves that have been designed to be optimized. A big problem with traditional rotary valves are the tight corners leading into & out of the outer casing.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Are you an experienced tech or did you just do this??peteedwards wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2023 11:32 am I have bored out rotary cores on a 3 axis CNC with an undercutting ball mill, also known as a lollipop mill. There is plenty of material to be removed even in traditional rotaries to maintain cross-sectional bore area through the valve passage, although the cross section will not be round. It is very effective but not as good as valves that have been designed to be optimized. A big problem with traditional rotary valves are the tight corners leading into & out of the outer casing.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
This thread is focusing on the impact of opening up the ports on a standard rotor. Some say it makes a difference. Some say it does not. Some people have actually ruined their valves because they have gone too far with this process! I believe the standard valve can be improved, but on a limited basis…….there is a finite amount of metal to work with, so the change is quite limited. I think Matthew’s ball bearing placed in the rotor core illustrates that very well.
One thing that was mentioned by Matthew that I believe is VERY important is the adjustment of a rotary valve so that it has no lateral movement. It can make or break the success of a rotor and the entire instrument. I have had players come to me and asking for an after-market valve and I tell them that we should try to adjust the bearings first so that the original rotor is working as it is designed to work. About half of those players are very pleased with that fine-tuning of the original rotor and stay with it. When the bearings are fitted perfectly and the rotor has no lateral play, the instrument definitely focuses better and has more core.
One thing that was mentioned by Matthew that I believe is VERY important is the adjustment of a rotary valve so that it has no lateral movement. It can make or break the success of a rotor and the entire instrument. I have had players come to me and asking for an after-market valve and I tell them that we should try to adjust the bearings first so that the original rotor is working as it is designed to work. About half of those players are very pleased with that fine-tuning of the original rotor and stay with it. When the bearings are fitted perfectly and the rotor has no lateral play, the instrument definitely focuses better and has more core.
Brian D. Hinkley - Player, Teacher, Technician and Trombone Enthusiast
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Great points! My repair tech has made such adjustments with great success.Crazy4Tbone86 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 8:45 am This thread is focusing on the impact of opening up the ports on a standard rotor. Some say it makes a difference. Some say it does not. Some people have actually ruined their valves because they have gone too far with this process! I believe the standard valve can be improved, but on a limited basis…….there is a finite amount of metal to work with, so the change is quite limited. I think Matthew’s ball bearing placed in the rotor core illustrates that very well.
One thing that was mentioned by Matthew that I believe is VERY important is the adjustment of a rotary valve so that it has no lateral movement. It can make or break the success of a rotor and the entire instrument. I have had players come to me and asking for an after-market valve and I tell them that we should try to adjust the bearings first so that the original rotor is working as it is designed to work. About half of those players are very pleased with that fine-tuning of the original rotor and stay with it. When the bearings are fitted perfectly and the rotor has no lateral play, the instrument definitely focuses better and has more core.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
I'm definitely pleased with the porting of my rotors. The valve caps help center the sound because of the extra room. When. I got the horn both valves were supposedly the same measurements, but the f attachment played way more open, my tech confirmed it, it was ported. I think it's worth it if you get a worthy tech, my tech plays bass bone and knew what I wanted out of the valve.
Conn 112 H w/bored out rotors w/heavyweight caps, Sterling Silver Edward's B3 and Shires B3 leadpipe w/62H slide. Long Island Brass Comp Dimensions 29.5 inner rim .323 backbore solid silver lefreque
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
I'd like to point out that there are many rotors that really don't need opening up. I've played King 4B's, Conn 88H's, and my Yamaha 682 which had very open rotors. The idea about opening valves came from the Bach 42B, which was provided with an undersize rotor from the start.
Bruce Guttman
Merrimack Valley Philharmonic Orchestra
"Almost Professional"
Merrimack Valley Philharmonic Orchestra
"Almost Professional"
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Who is your tech?trombonedemon wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 10:05 am I'm definitely pleased with the porting of my rotors. The valve caps help center the sound because of the extra room. When. I got the horn both valves were supposedly the same measurements, but the f attachment played way more open, my tech confirmed it, it was ported. I think it's worth it if you get a worthy tech, my tech plays bass bone and knew what I wanted out of the valve.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
In my limited experience with 3 old horns my 1970s Bach 50B2 has air tight rotors that strongly resist pushing in the tuning slides and can make a loud popping noise when pulling the slides out. None of the rotors on my Holton TR-180 or my TR-183/5 can pop. They offer only minimal resistance to pushing in the tuning slides while making a whooshing sound. I sent my TR-180 to one of our esteemed TC techs and he assured me the rotors were fine despite the lack of resistance. (My 50B may have tight rotors but I rarely play it because they are so stuffy.) I did have the tech open the ports a bit on the TR-180 mainly because someone else told me they'd done it to their TR-180 with a good result. I'm not sure if it made much difference.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Are we related? wgwhitakerdbwhitaker wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 12:58 pm In my limited experience with 3 old horns my 1970s Bach 50B2 has air tight rotors that strongly resist pushing in the tuning slides and can make a loud popping noise when pulling the slides out. None of the rotors on my Holton TR-180 or my TR-183/5 can pop. They offer only minimal resistance to pushing in the tuning slides while making a whooshing sound. I sent my TR-180 to one of our esteemed TC techs and he assured me the rotors were fine despite the lack of resistance. (My 50B may have tight rotors but I rarely play it because they are so stuffy.) I did have the tech open the ports a bit on the TR-180 mainly because someone else told me they'd done it to their TR-180 with a good result. I'm not sure if it made much difference.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
I'm not a tech, I am an engineer & machinist. I only work on my own horns.WGWTR180 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 7:20 amAre you an experienced tech or did you just do this??peteedwards wrote: ↑Tue Jul 04, 2023 11:32 am I have bored out rotary cores on a 3 axis CNC with an undercutting ball mill, also known as a lollipop mill. There is plenty of material to be removed even in traditional rotaries to maintain cross-sectional bore area through the valve passage, although the cross section will not be round. It is very effective but not as good as valves that have been designed to be optimized. A big problem with traditional rotary valves are the tight corners leading into & out of the outer casing.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
peteedwards wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 7:44 pmI'm not a tech, I am an engineer & machinist. I only work on my own horns.
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Scott Sweeney.WGWTR180 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 12:11 pmWho is your tech?trombonedemon wrote: ↑Thu Jul 06, 2023 10:05 am I'm definitely pleased with the porting of my rotors. The valve caps help center the sound because of the extra room. When. I got the horn both valves were supposedly the same measurements, but the f attachment played way more open, my tech confirmed it, it was ported. I think it's worth it if you get a worthy tech, my tech plays bass bone and knew what I wanted out of the valve.
Conn 112 H w/bored out rotors w/heavyweight caps, Sterling Silver Edward's B3 and Shires B3 leadpipe w/62H slide. Long Island Brass Comp Dimensions 29.5 inner rim .323 backbore solid silver lefreque
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports
Gracias!
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Re: Valve rebuild and/or opening valve ports7
On my old horns I've done the test and listned for the popping-sound. If the valves leak you can try thicker oil. I have a few horns that needed thicker oil and they definitely played better after, and the valves weren't to slow with that oil either, they worked as expected.
/Tom
/Tom