Remove JB Weld?

[Amconk]

Im fixing up an old student model horn, hoping to get it in playing condition to donate to a local school.

The water key appears to have at some point been very sloppily repaired using JB Weld. Whats the best way to go about removing it so I can properly solder the piece back together? Heat? Or just straight up grind and chisel?

[BrassSection]

If it was properly mixed and applied, that stuff is tough. Dremel used carefully will probably be your best bet. Fine cutting wheel, but need to remember much contact or the cutter with brass will leave you a hole in no time.

[walldaja]

New crook.

[JohnL]

Attack Epoxy Remover is supposed to work, but it's really nasty stuff.

You could try soaking the crook in acetone for a few days; that's supposed to soften the the epoxy up to the point where the parts can be separated and the epoxy scraped off.

[ghmerrill]

A butane torch (or even a butane lighter) should do just fine if you simply want to remove it. Don't breathe the fumes.

If you don't like the torch idea, a heat gun should do it. Again, be careful about the fumes. If you want to actually clean the epoxy off it, you'll need to use some sort of repeated heat/scrape approach, or some careful sanding.

(Getting a heat gun several years ago was one of the best tool acquisitions I've made. It's surprising how handy -- and relatively safe -- a heat gun is. I use it a LOT more than I ever expected to.)

[Amconk]

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1AbE9Q ... tid=wwXIfr

Here’s a link to my Facebook post with the pictures.

Surprisingly I’m taking a lot of flack for my post, with many people telling me I shouldn’t knock the original attempted repair. Agree to disagree… I guess.

[tbonesullivan]

A butane torch (or even a butane lighter) should do just fine if you simply want to remove it. Don't breathe the fumes.

If you don't like the torch idea, a heat gun should do it. Again, be careful about the fumes. If you want to actually clean the epoxy off it, you'll need to use some sort of repeated heat/scrape approach, or some careful sanding.

(Getting a heat gun several years ago was one of the best tool acquisitions I've made. It's surprising how handy -- and relatively safe -- a heat gun is. I use it a LOT more than I ever expected to.)

Hopefully they used "regular" epoxy. JB weld is pretty high temperature, so you really need to cook it to get it off.

[JLivi]

And here I thought there was a member named JB Weld and we were going to discuss if we should remove them from TromboneChat

[boneberg]

And here I thought there was a member named JB Weld and we were going to discuss if we should remove them from TromboneChat

Love it!

[sdenlinger]

Isn't JB Weld Tuesday Weld's lesser known younger brother? (One for the grandads.)

[Amconk]

Isn't JB Weld Tuesday Weld's lesser known younger brother? (One for the grandads.)

Once removed…

[BarryDaniels]

I just removed some JB Weld from a Conn by chipping it away with a triangular scraper. Took a while but it came off cleanly.

[ghmerrill]

I just removed some JB Weld from a Conn by chipping it away with a triangular scraper.

Was that on a nickel or a yellow brass surface?

[BarryDaniels]

It was a nickel plated receiver where the bell brace had been sloppily glued. I was tapping on a stuck f-attachment slide and three places where glue had been used cracked and suddenly the bell came loose from the other side. Kind of a surprise.

[ghmerrill]

It was a nickel plated receiver where the bell brace had been sloppily glued.

Ah! ... Yeah, I could see doing that chipping approach with the triangular scraper (carefully) on nickel. I'd be pretty leery of doing it on (much softer) brass.

[BarryDaniels]

Come to think of it, the joint of the f-attachment tube to the gooseneck where the two tubes are rubbing against each other, was also JB Welded and got scraped clean. It was definitely softer base metal, being raw brass, but wasn’t a lot different than the nickel.