Shires Tru-bore valves

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PauloDC
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Shires Tru-bore valves

Post by PauloDC »

Hi everyone! I'm trying to disassembly my tru-bore valves but I got stuck and don't know how to take it apart. The rotor is not coming out and I don't want to force it with the rubber hammer. Any ideas on how take it apart?
piezer
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Re: Shires Tru-bore valves

Post by piezer »

There’re videos on seshires Facebook page where they go over how to disassemble all of their valves. I can’t find it right now but it was filmed sometime during 2020 or 2021 iirc
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Re: Shires Tru-bore valves

Post by GabrielRice »

The recommendation from Steve Shires' mouth himself is DO NOT DISSASSEMBLE your valves. There are too many things you can do wrong and cause damage. The only thing you need to do is oil them often. Once a week is not quite often enough; 2-3 times per week is good; if you're really playing a lot, every day is not a bad idea. If you do that, a tune-up once a year (or less often than that, honestly) by a professional is all you need.
brassmedic
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Re: Shires Tru-bore valves

Post by brassmedic »

I believe it's like a standard rotary valve. With the stop arm removed, you tap on the spindle and the bearing cap should pop off on the other side. A rubber mallet is a bad idea, though. You need a rawhide mallet, which is firmer than rubber but still non-marring.
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BGuttman
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Re: Shires Tru-bore valves

Post by BGuttman »

brassmedic wrote: Tue Nov 01, 2022 7:09 am I believe it's like a standard rotary valve. With the stop arm removed, you tap on the spindle and the bearing cap should pop off on the other side. A rubber mallet is a bad idea, though. You need a rawhide mallet, which is firmer than rubber but still non-marring.
I've also used a wooden crab mallet (from your favorite kitchen store). I had a Mirafone kit that actually included one.

Note that if the valve uses tapered bearings, its VERY easy to screw something up putting it back together and the use of a Tech is a very good idea.
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elmsandr
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Re: Shires Tru-bore valves

Post by elmsandr »

brassmedic wrote: Tue Nov 01, 2022 7:09 am I believe it's like a standard rotary valve. With the stop arm removed, you tap on the spindle and the bearing cap should pop off on the other side. A rubber mallet is a bad idea, though. You need a rawhide mallet, which is firmer than rubber but still non-marring.
Yup.

On mine, the most difficult part was getting the stop arm off.

With the internal stop on the bearing plate, getting it back exactly right is a bit of a pain. Being able to trim bumpers without debris in the valve would be an improvement.

Cheers,
Andy
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