Bach 42 high register issue

[TraderPat]

Help!
I have a Bach 42G with the Infinity valve. I'm having a rough time hitting anything above a 3rd line G. I think maybe there's an air leak somewhere but I can't find anything. When I'm going for an A flat, A natural, B flat or higher, I feel like I'm blowing my brains out; it's like there is no resistance at all.
I normally play a Bach 5G, but different mouthpieces make no difference. I've tried smaller and larger, 6.5AL to 1.5G.
On my small bore Yamaha and on my (larger bore than the 42G) Miraphone euphonium, I have no problems in that register.
Of course, I've been blaming myself, but maybe there's something going on with the horn. I've replaced the spit valve cork, any thoughts on where else to look? I've been playing for 40 years and I've never seen anything like this.

Thank you,
Patrick McNeal

[Burgerbob]

Valve oiled?

[CheeseTray]

Have you checked for a leak in the valve? It may be slightly misaligned and leaking...

[TraderPat]

Valve oiled?

Yes, sir!

[TraderPat]

Have you checked for a leak in the valve? It may be slightly misaligned and leaking...

What's the best way to check this kind of valve?

[Burgerbob]

Have you checked for a leak in the valve? It may be slightly misaligned and leaking...

What's the best way to check this kind of valve?

Does the valve "pop" if you pull the tuning slide without the valve actuated, and then actuate the valve?

[Crazy4Tbone86]

Take the main tuning slide off. Shine a flashlight down the smaller side and into the gooseneck. Most goosenecks only have a slight bend, so you should have a clear view to see if the port of the axial valve is lined up on the disengaged side.

I suspect that you might have an obstruction someplace in the horn. I have seen things as innocent as a Tootsie roll wrapper create absolute havoc on a trombone. One of the craziest things I have seen was a coin stuck in the main tuning slide. It essentially created an on/off valve. When the flat surface of the coin was parallel with the length of the horn, it played perfectly. Giggle the horn slightly and the coin would turn perpendicular with the length of the tubing (creating a cross-section plug)….absolutely no sound came out the instrument.

[TraderPat]

What's the best way to check this kind of valve?

Does the valve "pop" if you pull the tuning slide without the valve actuated, and then actuate the valve?

Yes. I even tried blowing into the valve tubes with the other end blocked. No air. The valve seemed to be in good alignment, as well. The slide doesn't seem to be leaking, either. I'm at a loss. I'll snake it out and give it a good bath to make sure there are no foreign objects. Thanks for your help!

[StephenK]

I've had a small foreign object get caught in the hand slide crook, which caused weird problems playing., Most notes played, but some not at all. So make sure there is nothing trapped there.

[Crazy4Tbone86]

The vast majority of air leaks that I have seen are very small areas of solder that did not fill a connection or ferrule joint. Most of these air leaks have a subtle impact on the instrument.....a note here or there will be dull. Another sign of a small leak is a soft buzzing or hissing sound, and it might only be on certain pitches.

If you are dealing with notes that are tremendously different in response (that's how your original description sounds), I really think that is an obstruction. I hope you find it and consider it a wonderful learning opportunity!

In terms of checking for air leaks, the best "quick check" is a simple vacuum test. This can only be done on sections of tubing that do not have a valve. For example: outer slide, main tuning slide (use palm to seal the large end), F-attachment tuning slide, even the valve to small side of the tuning slide (if you can get your thumb or a finger to seal the port of the valve casing).

This is the quick vacuum test that I was taught many years ago:

1. Place your thumb (palm for the large side of main tuning slide) on one end of the tubing. Make sure you have a 100% air tight seal.
2 Place the other end up to your lower lip. Again, make sure you have a complete seal with your lower lip.
3. With your lower lip maintaining a seal, suck the air out of the tubing. For me, it usually takes 3 or 4 small inhalations.
4 Keep the end of the tubing against your lower lip. It should create a vacuum that easily lasts for 10-15 seconds. After the 10-15 seconds, it should have a little "pop" when you pull it away from your lower lip.
5. If the tubing loses its vacuum, the tubing has a leak. The faster it loses the vacuum, the bigger the leak.

[TraderPat]

Thanks for all the responses. I'm going to give it a good cleaning and see what happens.
Also, I've seen a few posts about leadpipe swaps. I've been mostly a casual player over the years, only recently doing some paid gigs, mostly in musical theatre (a match made in Heaven if there ever was one!), so I'm unfamiliar with modifications. What benefits would swapping the leadpipe give, and is it possible on the 42G?

[BGuttman]

Newer 42s have removable leadpipes; older ones do not. You can get the leadpipe pulled on any Bach 42, but it has to be done by a competent tech -- not a job for the faint of heart.

A change of leadpipe won't make a big difference unless the old one is badly corroded (something you will need a borescope to determine). By itself it won't create or solve the problem you described, though.