Buying an Edwards lead pipe questions

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jpwell
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Joined: Fri May 11, 2018 11:52 am

Buying an Edwards lead pipe questions

Post by jpwell »

Finally moving to the modular.
What is the science of figuring out a lead pipe without buying them all.
Mps dependent
Lung size
Horn configuration

I play de113k8 or de 113L8 or Doug yeo
Right now I play a dg or Yamaha 611
Horn is Edwards has rose brass bell yellow tuning slide yellow slide no over sleeves regular valves
I don’t have huge lungs. Lungs have 30 years in the fire service actually.

Need help knowing where to start.
Thx
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Burgerbob
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Re: Buying an Edwards lead pipe questions

Post by Burgerbob »

Always best to start with a 2.
Aidan Ritchie, LA area player and teacher
Thrawn22
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Re: Buying an Edwards lead pipe questions

Post by Thrawn22 »

Anything but a 1.
6H (K series)
6H (early 60s)
4H/5H custom bell
78H ('53)
78H (K series)
78H/36BG /2547 slide
8H
88HN
71H (dependant valves)
72H
35H alto (K series)
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harrisonreed
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Re: Buying an Edwards lead pipe questions

Post by harrisonreed »

If you're going modular, you usually get all three as a part of the package. If you're trying to piece something together used, I'd start with a "2", and pick the rest of the components that are the most popular. Even if I was trying to piece a horn together, I'd buy a new slide, which will come with three pipes. Edwards often has brand new B-stock slides for sale online, which are functionally flawless, but might have a lacquer issue or blemish. I would also try to get whatever valve section you want, but WITH the harmonic pillar brace. This way you can make the horn do a lot of things with only one pipe and one set of components. The longer I have it, the more indispensable it becomes for me, particularly for moving between different rooms and different halls. The horn can respond the same way no matter what room I'm in, and I've been able to control that by changing how far the large copper pillar goes in the middle brace hole. Feeling like I am projecting to the back of a concert hall in an 8 foot practice room is amazing!

Your concern seems to be based around air flow and lung capacity, but I would caution that the numbers won't really work the way you think they would -- you won't be able to hold a note for longer on a "1" pipe vs a "3" pipe, but it might feel like you get a lot more out of one pipe vs another for less effort.

The leadpipe will change the perceived resistance up front, and some of the feedback from the horn. There is no way to know what that will be like since every leadpipe will be different, even between two with the same number. If you're going modular the whole point is to try a bunch of components to get something great. Guessing what might work without trying it sort of defeats the purpose so the best bet is to ask for a known combo that works for many people, and try to get those components.
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Matt K
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Re: Buying an Edwards lead pipe questions

Post by Matt K »

Agreed, 2 best starting point. I'd go to a 3 on Edwards on more "Conn like" instruments. Or 2.5 on Shires since they have in between sizes. That would be horns with lighter red brass bells, unsoldered bell heads, narrower slides, e2 piece bells, etc. Or to 1 or 1.5 on horns that are more Bach like which would be horns with one piece bells, soldered bell beads, dual radius tuning slides, and bass crooks. On horns that have a mix of those things, the 2 tends to work better for me. But on horns that are predominantely one or the other, thays typically the way I go. That said, I've been rocking a 1 on my T47LW/2RVET7 for a few years.
jpwell
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Joined: Fri May 11, 2018 11:52 am

Re: Buying an Edwards lead pipe questions

Post by jpwell »

All good info thx
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